Going on road trips in the States generally includes paved roads and highways, not here. The bus twisted and winded through the mountain terrain and you feel lucky if it's paved at least half way. Unfortunately, as we traveled along about 95% of everyone on the bus, if not more, got car sick. Even more unfortunate, none were very discrete about it. Moaning, heaving, and sounds that shouldn't be described were happening very LOUDLY as time after time people surrounding me puked. I never want to be so close to so many throwing up people again. The bus ride took two days to reach Lalibella. After the first full day of travel we reached the city called, Dessie. I stayed the night there at a hole in the wall hotel and got my share of bed bug bites. The city was nice though I didn't have much time to explore it. Bright and early the next morning at 5am we hit the road again. The unpleasant smells and sounds of the bus adventure will forever be etched into my brain, however, I still was able to enjoy it. The drive is absolutely beautiful. Full of mountains, people working in their fields, women cooking outside traditional huts, and small kids herding cows. Ethiopia truly is a beautiful country filled with beautiful people. By late afternoon, we finally arrived in Lalaibella. It's a city created into and atop the mountains. There are hundreds of small surrounding villages further into the mountains as well. After getting a room and collapsing on the bed for a quick nap I set out exploring the town. I was quickly impressed with how clean and tidy Laliballa was, a dramatic contrast from Addis. As I walked and explored I came to a pathway, one obviously traveled often, leading through the mountains to another village. Walking on the dusty trail I couldn't help but feel like I was on top of the world. Then and now I can't help but appreciate how grand life really is. The local people I met in passing would laugh and giggle upon seeing and hearing me utter my Ahmarik greetings. Everyone is so friendly and eager to practice their English on me and I love meeting these new interesting people. I walked down the mountain side to a small flowing river. There I met a man from Holland, who was also out walking. I'm always curious to learn others stories to why they are in Ethiopia. This man comes every year for a month to follow up on a program he implemented into the school system years ago. He was also helping start a local library and has funded computers for the schools. He was an interesting and remarkable man. We parted ways and I continued my trek back up the mountain.
I decided most people don't know what bed bug bites look like so I decided to educate you. They're a lot like chicken pox and just as itchy if not more!
A view of the beautiful city that is literally right in the mountains.
Some of the huts and homes of Lalibella.
A colorful traditional hut.
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One thing that is common here is to see women hauling back breaking packs of water or wood on their backs. The women in Lalibella were no exception. I was climbing the mountain with some women packing wood to their huts for cooking on. I decided to ask them if I could pack their wood for them. They looked at me and burst out laughing and didn't really believe me that I really wanted to. After some convincing they gladly agreed. The women were estatic that a faringee would even think to pack a load of wood on her back. After getting it strapped on I started up the mountain side with the entertained women at my side and oh my gosh was it heavy! Just walking up the steep road was hard let alone with trees on your back. I felt so very thankful that I don't have to haul sticks up a mountain side everyday. It was so fun to spend time with these women and experience a small part of their lives. The women kept telling me " Gobez, gobez, gobez!" Meaning "Strong, strong, strong!" In truth, Ethiopian and all African women are really the ones who are gobez. These women live in such poor conditions and are expected to work so hard for their home and family. They are all amazing and courageous. I'm thankful to have associated with them.
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On Thanksgiving morning, I went out to get breakfast but instead met a group of boys, four of them, who were right around my age. They were very courteous and offered to show me around and took me to a beautiful look out point of the city. We sat and talked and enjoyed the quietness these mountains have to offer. Next, they showed me their homes. Being with local people is always the best because you get to see things that most never get the chance to. Walking through the part of town where the locals live is always interesting to me. I love seeing people in their natural setting. It's a beautiful thing to witness a different culture and way of life first hand. Talking with the boys they asked me if I was going to go see the "Mountain Church." I responded with, " I'd like too!" And so it was. Two of the boys, Abebe and Mulugeta said they'd take me. By this point it was nearly lunch time so we stopped in a small cafe before we left. My Thanksgiving "feast" consisted of a delicious vegetable or fasting injera.
A yummy Thanksgiving Meal!
After lunch it was up the mountain. We hiked to the top of one of the tallest mountains around. Walking there we went through villages, up switch back after switch back, and loved it! For some reason the only shoes I wore to Lalibella, of all shoes, were my flip-flops. They definitely weren't the ideal shoe to hike in. The boys were gentlemen though and would help me when needed.
This is another view of Lalibella. The mountain church is located near the top of the highest point on the right hand side.
Abebe and Mulugeta are amazing guys. They live together in a small rental room in Lalibella so they can go to school. Both their families live in remote villages. It takes them a full two days walk to go see their families. They are grateful they are able to go to school and have high ambitions to be doctors. They want to go to college here in Addis, anyone want to sponsor these amazing boys?? Reaching the top was breathtaking. Getting to drink the "Holy Water" from the spring was cold and rewarding as well. The church was literally carved into the mountain side. Quite the sight to see. The church to this day is used by the surrounding villagers and Monks live all around the church in small caves. The priest were kind and showed me their different books, crosses, and around the church. Coming back was definitely easier and faster then going up. On our way back, a women and a little girl sold me a cute traditional doll and bag. I especially like the doll, it even smells like fire smoke and the people.
Mulugeta Abebe
The churches are filled with tunnels that are super cool.
A mountain top village.
Looking down on Lalibella.
Drinking the Holy water from the mountain side.
A priest and bible.
This is the women who made my traditional bag, she was really sweet.
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When we got back that night the boys took me to traditional dancing and music. Depending on where you live will determine the style of dancing. In Lalaibella and most Ahmarik speaking places they dance with their shoulders. It's hard to describe how they swing and shake their shoulders and heads around. It's entertaining to watch and very hard to do, at least for forengees. We met some guys from Belgum and invited them to the singing and dances. For the last 6 months they have been driving across Africa and so far have been in 19 country's. The locals enjoyed having us white people there and insisted upon us dancing. They all got a good laugh out of it. I'm so thankful I got to be in Ethiopia on Thanksgiving, it was a day to remember.
Beautiful music, singing ad dancing.
The next day, I spent my time touring the other 11 churches right in town. Abebe and Mulugeta had a friend who is an official tour guide who took me through. The churches are said to be constructed by King Lalibella himself and date sometime in the 12th or 13th centrury. The churches are very intricate and beautifully built. It's hard to imagine that they were crafted by a chisel and pick. They are also all being used to this day. Lots more could be said about these amazing buildings but I'll let the pictures do the talking...
This was my amazing tour guide. He was funny and knowledgeable.
This was said to be the path to heaven. The priests say if you can walk up it and back without falling you have lived a sin free life. My tour guide said he had walked it safely but still thinks hes a sinner....
My plan for this adventure was very vague and hard to detect BUT it did include Lalibella, Axum, amazingness, and at least two weeks. Things don't always work as planned, especially here. I only made it as far as Lalibella and that turned out amazing. Nati, the one I traveled with, wasn't as excited about it all I guess. He wanted to be back in Addis in time for a friend's birthday party. We didn't even last a full week. I was disappointed and frustrated that being a girl has to hold me back. Big thanks to Nati though for being a good sport and helping me make it to Lalibella.
Our trip back started early at 4:30am but this time in a mini bus or really just a van that they cram a million and a half people in. The drive went on and on and on on on. I found myself laughing to myself how crazy life can be at times. Never in the states would I drive cross country in a van stuffed with luggage, people, and sometimes animals like sardeens. Life and Ethiopia is grand and so was reaching Addis 18 hrs later. Now to continue to make life epic in the short weeks left here. Time went so fast, can't believe it's December and I've been here 5 months. See all of you at home soon.
